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LA TIMES loves Union: “Kalman is taking chances”

June 20, 2014

Jonathan Gold from the LA Times stopped by recently and we’re excited to hear that he loved his meal.
See the full article here!

“But you may not be expecting the suppleness of the lightly cured California-salmon crudo, the deep flavor of the guanciale broth in which the mussels were steamed, the elegant crispness of a salad of radish, shaved asparagus and walnuts, or the hardcore Italian grandmother vibe of the meatballs, which are enhanced with caper berries and lardo but taste like something that could have come out of a four-hour Sunday gravy. The great vegetables, you can take for granted. The touch of Italian soul, you cannot.”

“Kalman is taking chances with slightly off-kilter preparations, and they seem to be fitting into this difficult neighborhood just fine.”



Photo by Patrick T. Fallon
Photo by Patrick T. Fallon

Categories: Press

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